Cook this: Cold-smoked Labrador Arctic char with cultured cream and seal bresaola from Wildness
|National Post 25 Jun 2019 at 08:28|
“It’s surf and turf,” Jeremy Charles says of his cold-smoked Labrador Arctic char with cultured cream and seal bresaola. Seal is a natural partner for Arctic char: “Seals eat char, they eat salmon, they eat cod; we’ve dried out the seal into a bresaola and we grate it almost like a Parmesan cheese.” (Charles adds that salmon could be used in place of the Arctic char.)
The dish brings together two foods essential to Inuit communities in Nunatsiavut (the northern coast of Labrador): Arctic char and seal. “I don’t beat the seal drum but it’s an important thing to talk about and it’s still a really important protein to a lot of people,” says Charles. While Canada’s seal hunt has been the subject of controversy since the 1960s, its proceeds are critical to life in the province, particularly for Inuit.
“It’s such a taboo word around the world and seal has been so important, especially in the winter and the spring when there was no food. Seals kept generations of people alive,” he says. “Not to have seal in the book would have been a huge injustice. It’s such an important part (of our culture), especially to people in northern Labrador, and it’s something we use at the restaurant.”