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Cook this: Marinated leek salad with wheat berries, carrots and seared salmon from Ruffage

Cook this: Marinated leek salad with wheat berries, carrots and seared salmon from Ruffage
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Our cookbook of the week is Ruffage by chef, writer and former farmer Abra Berens. Tomorrow, we’ll feature an interview with its author.

To try another recipe from the book, check out: , and blistered green beans with tomatoes, pounded walnuts and raw summer squash .

Leeks vinaigrette – a classic French dish – was Abra Berens’s starting point for this salad, which she serves with wheat berries and seared salmon. “The vinaigrette softens them and makes them (something) new, but without losing some of that bite from raw leek,” she says.

Serve the dish composed, as pictured, or toss the elements together and present it as a salad. “I like separating the components for a dinner party and serving as one big bowl for a potluck,” Berens writes.

Her choice of grain – chewy and toasty wheat berries – is in line with her desire to shine a light on the products of the Midwest (Berens lives in Galien, Mich.).

“I’m not sure most people even think about where bread flour comes from. I think they know what wheat on the stalk in the shaft looks like … but then it seems like it just magically goes from that into bleached all-purpose flour. There are several steps in between those two things,” Berens laughs. “I wanted to give a sense of it as another raw, primary ingredient.”

In Ruffage, chef Abra Berens offers an inventive and inviting guide to cooking nearly 30 kinds of vegetables. Chronicle Books
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