Cook this: Poached cod cheek, mussel broth, potato and shore greens from Wildness
|National Post 25 Jun 2019 at 06:02|
Our cookbook of the week is by Jeremy Charles, chef and co-owner of the award-winning St. John’s restaurant Raymonds . Over the next three days, we’ll feature more recipes from the book and an interview with its author.
“Codfish is always, and will always be, the fish of Newfoundland. Fish is cod. There’s no other way around it,” says Jeremy Charles. At Raymonds Restaurant in St. John’s, Nfld., they use all parts of the fish, including offal. At home, his family hangs pieces of dried cod skin – with its attractive leopard-like spots – on the Christmas tree: “It’s more than just food.”
In keeping with its pivotal role in Newfoundland food culture, Charles opens Wildness with a chapter highlighting the versatility of the mighty codfish. Recipes include traditional uses such as fish and brewis, cod sounds (swim bladder), crispy cod chitlins (sperm) and this bourride-like (Provençal fish stew) dish, which showcases the tenderness of cod cheek.
“Sometimes we’ll fry them but in this instance we poach the cheek. And I always love using mussels with fish; I love broths. It keeps it nice and light; not too heavy,” says Charles. “This is a dish with cod cheek, mussel broth, potatoes, and shore greens that are so prominent on our shorelines. I picture it with a nice glass of white wine. It comes and goes but cod is always on the menu in one way shape or form, unless it’s not in season.”